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  • A Day Walk Along Cicada Walking Track on Rubicon River in Thornton

    First, I would like to acknowledge the Taungurung peoples of the Kulin Nations as the traditional owners of Rubicon Valley. I want to pay my respects to the past, present and any Indigenous people among us today. I also want to acknowledge that I have profited and benefited from stolen land and that Indigenous people were never ceded sovereignty. Finally, I would like to acknowledge again the Wurundjeri clan of the Kulin Nations the traditional owners of Naarm where I sit and write this blog today and I would like to acknowledge the traditional owners of the many lands my readers come from.

    I have often been to Rubicon Valley, but it holds a particular special memory for me. The last time I went camping with my grandparents many years ago. Which is especially important to me now because my Pa is not with us anymore. Although so close to Eildon and within the town of Thornton the surrounding Rubicon State Forest is absolutely stunning and the flowing river is calming. To begin the circuit you can park your car at the Lower Rubicon Power Station. Begin by walking across the road bridge that crosses the Rubicon River and walk onto the private property of the Outdoor Education Group here you make a sharp right turn onto the southeast facing Cicada Walking Trail.

    View of a road bridge which is over a river. There are trees lining both sides.
    The road bridge after the Lower Rubicon Power Station
    A picture of a sign along a trail that reads cicada circuit trail, to the boys camp 3.1kms. There is a shed in the background.
    The sign to look for directly after the bridge.
    A narrow dirt pathway with grass along both sides and a bank on the right towards the river. There are trees beside the trail on both sides.
    The beginning of the trail.

    I did this hike solo recently, I began at the bridge described above. The beauty of this circuit is that you can begin in multiple places, I will point out these spots along the way. The trail quickly joined a wider pathway travelling south east handrailing the Rubicon River. After the first 1km of hiking I came across a trail intersection on a hill and I turned east, inland away from the river, the elevation changes here as well. I began to walk uphill for the next 1km gaining 380m of elevation. This gradient is not overly steep but does work up a sweat, luckily the land gradually undulates and twists and turns above deep gullies of ferns and eucalypts. The path continues quiet compact and wide although I did run into some slippery, muddy sections which were a challenge with my current injury but for most people would be super easy to navigate.

    A fork in the trail with a sign to show the direction where the cicada trail continues.
    First trail transition
    A wider dirt pathway that is also lined by grass on both sides, reasonably flat and has trees on either side.
    The wider pathway
    An intersection on a hill with undergrowth and trees in the back ground.
    The intersection
    A wide undulating dirt pathway way through thick bushland and trees.
    The wider, undulating pathway
    Muddy path way with the sun shining through the trees and the shrubs surrounding the pathway.
    Mud I found along the way.

    At this point the trail descends about 50m of elevation into a S bend over 300m of distance until the trail is handrailing the Rubicon River once again. The next 700m of trail is relatively flat. I crossed multiple bridges to get to the other side and join the Kendalls Link Trail. I chose not to continue on the Cicada Walking Trail to the Boys Camping Area since I have already been there many times. At the Boys Camping Area there is car access and a drop toilet so this could be an alternative start and finish spot if appropriate for you.

    View of a wooden, chicken wire bridge with tall trees surrounding it.
    The second bridge.
    View of a wooden bridge and tall trees surrounding it that open up to a clearing behind the bridge.
    The third bridge.
    A beautiful trestle bridge with green grass in the foreground. Many tall trees surrounding it before the grassy bank disappears into the river.
    The fourth and most magnificent bridge along the way.

    I continued hiking in a northwest direction on the Kendalls Link Track for 1.2km. I handrailed the river once again, this side of the river is much closer to the road and feels less remote. I traversed over a bridge and then a boardwalk before arriving at the sign for Kendalls Camping Area. Just before I entered the campground there is a subtle bend in the river, this can be a fun swimming hole but only enjoy it when the river levels are not too high and if your a confident swimmer, please take care. I hiked through the various campsites and picnic areas for 400m before joining up with the Cicada Walking Trail once again. I have camped here many times before, it is well looked after, with many large campsites where campfires are allowed in allocated fireplaces, theres car access, and drop toilet facilities. I would highly recommend a weekend away here. This could also be another start and finish point for the hike.

    A boardwalk among ferns and trees.
    The boardwalk.
    A bridge with the sun pouring through the trees surrounding it.
    The 5th bridge on this hike.
    A view of the trail passing through a fence line with a sign explaining the hiking options, there are skinny teatrees in the background.
    I came through this fence and turned around to see this sign once arriving at Kendalls Camping Area.
    A grassy campsite surrounded by a low lying wooden barrier and a campfire in the centre.
    The largest campsite at Kendalls Camping Area right beside the Kendalls Link Track.

    Once on the Cicada Walking Trail again I only had 1km left of the 6km hike. This part of the trail is further away from Rubicon River and closer to the road with a subtle decline of 50metres. I crossed the final bridge and took in the view of the Lower Rubicon Power Station now having come full circle. On the map it shows the trail ends here, but you can either walk down a very steep slope towards the Power Station or continue northwest along the road and then turn northeast down the gravel road towards the Power Station. I took the latter option. This area is known as the Rubicon Valley Historic Area where there is so much history and nature to explore (including waterfalls, trestle bridges, aqueducts etc.) making it the perfect weekend get away.

    A view from the bridge above the Lower Rubicon Power Station, and the pipeline going down towards it.
    A view from the bridge above the Lower Rubicon Power Station, and the pipeline going down towards it.
    A view from the bridge below the Lower Rubicon Power Station pipeline. There is the road crossing the pipeline and then a grassy hill.
    A view from the bridge below the Lower Rubicon Power Station pipeline.
    A view from the trail through some skinny trees to the surrounding hill. The bushland looks lush and green and there is a blue sky in the background.
    A view from the trail at the second kilometre mark during the hilly section.
    A picture of leaves and bark on the ground and if you look carefully in the centre is a perfect spiral gum leaf that is a different shade of brown compared to the rest of the leaf matter.
    Natures simplistic beauty.
    Gushing river over some rocks, that is blocked from view buy a skinny tree that has lots of branches and the foreground is covered in grass and leaf matter.
    The river was quiet fast flowing this visit.
    Gushing river over some rocks, that is blocked from view by three spaced out trees.
    Another section of the river view from the trail.
    Gushing river over some rocks and surrounding bushland.
    The water level was higher than usual.
    Trail NameCicada Walking Trail
    Distance6km
    Estimated Time1 hr and 30 mins
    Grade2
    TypeCircuit
    ParkRubicon State Forest
    Access2WD
    Source
    Source
    October 23, 2023
  • Day Walk Along Gardiners Trail

    First, I would like to acknowledge the Wurundjeri clan, of the Woiwurrung peoples as the traditional owners of Gardiner’s Creek Reserve. I want to pay my respects to the past, present and any Indigenous people among us today. I also want to acknowledge that I have profited and benefited from stolen land and that Indigenous people were never ceded sovereignty. Finally, I would like to acknowledge again the Wurundjeri clan of the Kulin Nations the traditional owners of Naarm where I sit and write this blog today and I would like to acknowledge the traditional owners of the many lands my readers come from.

    Gardiner’s Creek Reserve is a nature escape from the busy residential life surrounding it. Perfect for students, families with dogs or friends going for a stroll. The wide graded gravel pathways are accessible by wheelchair users . I recently met my sister here for a picnic and we enjoyed the tranquil surrounds. This trail is a great option for people who want to feel a sense of achievement while experiencing injury or fatigue since the entire loop is short and reasonably flat. Spring is a stunning time of year to explore this reserve, while all the wattles and bottle brushes are blooming the aroma is incredible.

    A Straight section of the creek between to grassy banks scattered with small white flowers.
    Creek
    The creek is on the right side of the photo with a large rock garden across a section forming small rapids. To the left is a grass bank and wattle trees.
    Rapids
    The from a bridge that is not on the photo. The bend of the creek with beautiful reflections of trees and the sky on the water.
    Creek Bend

    There are many angles of access to this trail. The most obvious would be the carpark at the north east of the reserve. Here, opposite Bennettswood Bowling Club, you can begin the walk from either direction. We walked in a southeasterly direction planning to handrail the creek in a clockwise direction. There are many bridges to choose from to cut across to the otherside if you want to shorten your stroll and many benches to sit on to relax along the way.

    Concrete sturdy bridge with blue painted wooden handrails across the creek. There are many trees in the background.
    A sunny low angle of the creek and bridge over shadowed by many trees. The grass looks lush and green.

    The trail was very busy with people and dogs passing through but due to the many pathways we did not feel crowded at anytime. The southern side of the creek trail stretches for 1.4km before meeting Burwood Highway. We chose to walk beside the highway across to the north side of the creek and continue the circuit but there are trails on the other side of Burwood Highway that you could explore instead if you wanted a longer walk.

    Gravel Path with a wooden bench on the right had side with trees and the creek in the background.
    Bench along the trail.
    Grass in the foreground with a gravel path passing through and on the other side the land dips into the creek with many trees and shrubs on the other side of the creek. The sun is shining through.
    The trail handrailing the creek.

    We continued walking for 800metres in a northwesterly direction until we came across the off leash dog park and playground area. Here the trail open ups to a wide grassy area with picnic tables. This would be a great opportunity to allow your dog and children to explore and enjoy the surrounding area. We did not stop but continued walking another 800metres in the same direction and found ourselves back at the carpark again alongside Station Street. My sister and I gathered our picnic supplies from the car and found a nice spot to relax in the sunshine after our walk. Although a short stroll this day walk was just the nature immersion we needed for the day, we would highly recommend.

    Two gravel pathways merging in the foreground. There is an open space of grass from the trees in the background which is the off leash dog park.
    Off leash dog park.
    An open grassy field with a playground in the background shaded by some trees.
    Playground
    Trail NameGardiner’s Creek Circuit
    Distance3km
    Estimated Time40mins
    Grade1
    TypeCircuit
    ParkGardiner’s Creek Reserve
    Access2WD, Dog Friendly, Wheelchair Accessible
    Source
    October 17, 2023
  • Day Walk Adventure to the Den of Nargun

    First, I would like to acknowledge the Brabralung clan, of the Gunaikurnai peoples as the traditional owners of Mitchell River National Park. I want to pay my respects to the past, present and any Indigenous people among us today. I also want to acknowledge that I have profited and benefited from stolen land and that Indigenous people were never ceded sovereignty. Finally, I would like to acknowledge the Taungurung peoples of the Kulin Nations the traditional owners of the land where I sit and write this blog today and I would like to acknowledge the traditional owners of the many lands my readers come from.

    The Den of Nargun is a sacred place for the Gunaikurnai people. I could feel the sacredness of the site and felt privileged to visit this incredible natural wonder.

    “According to Gunaikurnai lore the Nargun is a large female creature who lives in a cave behind the waterfall. Stories were told around campfires about how the Nargun would abduct children who wandered off on their own. The Nargun could not be harmed with boomerangs or spears.”

    Gunaikurnai Land and Waters Aboriginal Corporation

    This stunning cave sits on Woolshed Creek, a small tributary of the Mitchell River. Within Gunaikurnai lore this is a special meeting place for women only, Gurnaikurnai men are not allowed to enter this area. Here initiation and learning ceremonies are held. The Gunaikurnai Land and Waters Aboriginal Corporation ask us when visiting to not enter the cave and to be respectful of the surrounding environment.

    A dark photo of an old twisted tree with a hill in the background.
    An old tree along the way.
    A skinny tree with moss growing on it that looks like a beard. It is surrounded by rocks and more sticks and twigs covered in moss.
    We appreciated the moss growing on this tree.

    I visited this cave with my partner and another couple. We were drawn in by the moss gardens, old twisted trees and the clear running creek beside the trail. We parked our car at Den of Nargun Picnic Area where there are toilets and plaques explaining the history of the place. The weather was overcast but warm and so we didn’t know if it would rain but knew that we would be well protected within the valley along the creek. To the east about 100m away from the carpark and toilets you will find the trailhead. After 140m of hiking in a northern direction on reasonably flat terrain we came across an intersection. We continued hiking to the north and ignored the eastern facing trail. We planned for a short hike but it would still be worth a visit if you were up for the 3km round trip. This 3km loop includes more culturally significant locations including the Deadcock Den and the Bluff Lookout. We chose to go with the 1.7km round trip instead.

    A photo of another old tree, this one looks like it is about to fall over and seems very hollow.
    Another old and unique tree along the way.

    For the next 300m we hiked a steady decline of 150m elevation. Take care in this section as its steep and slippery. We came upon another intersection here where the trail follows the river to the east and the west. We turned west towards the Den of Nargun and hand railed the Woolshed Creek. The trail becomes rocky, mossy and full of dead leaves here. This in my opinion is the most beautiful part of the day walk other than the actual cave. Although overgrown there are many little picnic or relax spots on old stumps or logs alongside the river here. We saw someone with a hammock setup nearby, it was extremely tranquil.

    A photo of the rocky trail and the creek in the background.
    This is what the trail looks like along the creek.

    After 400m of hiking alongside the river we came across the Den of Nargun. We spent a long time sitting on rocks taking in the magnificence of this area. As we sat there it began to rain, luckily we were protected by the tree canopies surrounding us and we got to take in the magic. To complete the trail we turned around and followed the same trail back to our car. The uphill steep section was a good challenge and less protected from the rain but being such a short hike very manageable.

    The magnificent cave of the Den of Nargun, it is raining and you can see the rain drops in the pond infront of the cave, there are various colours of lichen growing on the rocks and above the rock formation are trees growing in various shades of green.
    Den of Nargun

    If you wanted to change it up you could continue hiking east from the Den of Nargun handrailing the creek, passed the intersection where the trail begins to incline back towards the carpark. From the Den of Nargun its only 1km to the Deadcock Den and then another 600m to the Bluff Lookout. Finally only 550m from there back to the carpark. As you can see there are multiple routes there and back to choose from.

    a closer look at the den of nargun. the clear water in the foreground you can see all the rocks on the bottom. You also can see the stalagmites and stalactites in the background of the cave.
    A closer look.
    Another view point of the magnificent cave of the Den of Nargun, it is raining and you can see the rain drops in the pond infront of the cave, there are various colours of lichen growing on the rocks and above the rock formation are trees growing in various shades of green.
    Den of Nargun
    Trail NameDen of Nargun
    Distance1.7km
    Estimated Time1hr
    Grade2
    TypeTrail that you double back on
    ParkMitchell River National Park
    Access2WD (gravel dirt road)
    Source
    October 6, 2023
  • Sunny Afternoon Day Walk Around Albert Park Lake

    First, I would like to acknowledge the Yalukit Willam clan of the Boonwurrung peoples of the Kulin Nations as the traditional owners of Albert Park. I want to pay my respects to the past, present and any Indigenous people among us today. I also want to acknowledge that I have profited and benefited from stolen land and that Indigenous people were never ceded sovereignty. Finally, I would like to acknowledge the Wurundjeri peoples of, Naarm, where I sit and write this blog and would like to acknowledge the traditional owners of the many lands my readers come from.

    Albert Park has an interesting history that I was unaware of until doing more research but it was originally the mouth of the Birrarung (Yarra River). The traditional owners of the land that now holds Albert Park Lake were the Yalukit Willam people. Willam means house, home or place and Yalukit Willam means ‘river home’ or ‘people of the river’. This area was a rich home where Yalukit Willam and their guests found many resources for food, canoe building and mia-mias (temporary homes).

    A view of the lake through reeds in the foreground and then blue skies in the background.
    Protected area of the Albert Park Lake for bird life and fish to breed and develop.

    To understand the history of current day Albert Park Lake we must start further up Birrarung at Queen St Bridge where the Yarra Waterfall once was. Birrarung flowed over the waterfall toward a smaller waterfall which is now a man made weir called Dights Falls and into a large swampy area. The Yarra Waterfall was demolished with dynamite in 1883. The swampy area due to further disturbance to the river and surrounding land from Melbourne’s development became a lagoon which was wide but only one metre deep. This lagoon was excavated and sealed with man made banks turning it into a deeper water source for boating activities. In 1940 these works were complete.

    View of the lake with a clump of reeds behind a barrier which is for the area to establish a protected area for wildlife. there are no clouds in the sky.
    One of the protected areas still establishing itself.

    Today we get to enjoy a man made lake full of various bird life, fish and native plants. The trail is super gentle for all abilities and is a great option if you want to measure how far your walking, running or cycling in a controlled environment. We began at the carpark to the north of the lake. Beware it is paid parking unfortunately, we paid $5.56 for an hour and ten minutes. There is a nice picnic area which includes bbqs and toilets here. We walked anti clockwise around the lake first passing a lot of yacht clubs and docks where you can fish. The lake is very reedy so you would want to choose your fishing spot with care but it is stocked with trout and golden perch. There are many trees along the path on the western side of the Lake. Majority native and mature, it’s worth taking your time in this section to take in the beauty. There is also another picnic area here called Grebe Picnic Area, this would be more scenic than nearby the car park but has less facilities.

    A grassy hill with  a bbq and picnic table in the left of the picture. Blue skies with only two tiny clouds.
    Grebe Picnic Area
    View from the eastern side of the trees along the western path.
    View from the eastern side of the trees along the western path.
    View from the eastern side of the trees along the western path.
    Zoom in of the oldest and most beautiful tree, see if you can find it on your adventure.
    The carpark is in the foreground with no cars inside. There are a variety of trees behind the carpark and the lake is in the distance.
    The carpark where we parked.
    There is a sandy path with bbqs to the left of it and various trees in a picnic area in the background of the picture is the red toilet block.
    The picnic area nearby the northern parking.

    The southern section of the lake seems to be where all the broken reeds collect and most of the birds were feeding here. When we walked passed we were lucky to see a family of fluffy ducklings. This part has the best panoramic views of Melbourne’s skyline. There are also protected areas of the lake where no fishing is allowed, where there is much more vegetation to allow for birds and fish to breed and develop without being disturbed by the boats or fisherman. At this point of the lake there is also a workout zone setup by Parcourse. There is another workout zone midway the eastern side if you want to incorporate a body weight workout within your walk or run. To make it even more user friendly there are km markers all the way around the lake, this is ideal if your interval training or wanting to keep an eye on your distance travelled.

    A view of the sandy trail with a green km marker centre picture. There is a workout zone in the background and two people in white tshirts walking along the trail in the distance.
    The km markers around the Lake.
    there is a sign describing how to use the workout equipment that is behind it. In the background a trees and people walking passed on a concrete path.
    The southern workout zone.
    There are wooden benches for a workout zone surrounded by grass with an instruction plaque behind it. There is a road and then the city skyline in the background.
    The eastern workout zone
    There is a panoramic view of the trail, lake and tree scape with a small amount of the city scape in the background. A branch is overhanging in the front of the photo.
    The south eastern point of view.

    The eastern section of the trail has less trees and is more open. It is also closer to the road which is used by cars and cyclists, luckily there is a 40km speed limit here. There is also a golf course across the road which features a mini golf course. For your walk around the lake you have two choices of trail either the narrow concrete path directly beside the lake which is great for walkers. Or the accessible sandy trail appropriate for wheelchairs, prams, walkers, runners and cyclists. We covered 5km walking from our car to the lake, anticlockwise around the lake and then back to our car. There are other paths, sport facilities (swimming pool, netball courts etc.) and ovals to explore with many offering toilets and picnic facilities to choose from within Albert Park. I would highly recommend this day trip if your wanting a controlled environment for exercise and to enjoy immersing yourself in nature.

    Lake view of the city skyline to the right is the concrete bank with tall palm trees along the edge. The sky is blue and clear.
    An example of the concrete path on the western side.
    Lake view of the city skyline to the left is a shelter and trees along the pathway. The sky is blue and clear.
    An example of the sandy trail on the eastern side.
    Trail NameAlbert Park Lake Path
    Distance5km
    Estimated Time1hrs
    Grade1
    TypeCircuit
    ParkAlbert Park
    Access2WD
    Source
    October 3, 2023
  • Diamond Creek Trail – Eltham to Wattle Glen

    We wanted to walk on the Diamond Creek Trail and return back by train for long time and finally we did it on King’s Birthday holiday.

    We took a train to Eltham and started walking north.

    There were a lot of cyclists and people with dogs. Soon we reached Eltham Adventure Playground.

    Eltham North Adventure Playground
    Eltham North Adventure Playground
    Diamond Creek
    Sheep
    Sheep grazing on grass
    Diamond Creek, view from the bridge
    You can see a windmill in the distance

    Windmill House has interesting history.

    The sign reads:

    Diamond Creek to Wattle Glen

    The 12.5km Diamond Creek Trail follows the Diamond Creek between Eltham and Hurstbridge. Joining with the Main Yarra Trail at the Yarra River, it provides a continuous 55km trail into the city.

    This 2.5km section from Diamond Creek to Wattle Clen is a shared trail for pedestrians, cyclists and horse riders and has three creek crossings.

    The area has been roamed for centuries by the traditional owners, the Wurundjeri-willam clan of the Woi-wurrung- speaking people, and includes sites of significance.

    The trail passes through forest dominated by manna gums (binap in traditional Woi-wurrung language). Keep an eye out for kangaroos (marram), wallabies (wimbi), echidnas (gawarn) and wombats (warin), or even a platypus (Dulaiwurrong) in the creek (yuluk).

    Herberts Ruin, the remains of William Herbert’s 1861 stone house and stables, is evidence of Nillumbik’s pioneering days.

    Dogs are allowed on leash
    Eltham to Wattle Glen walk map

    We reached Wattle Glen station pretty tired. Fortunately we didn’t have to wait long for the train. We walked 11 km total. The walk took us 2 hours and 20 minutes to complete. You can check recording of our walk on Strava website.

    September 22, 2023
  • Welcome to Victoria – Royal Botanic Gardens

    I was soaked. My shorts and t-shirt so wet I was practically leaving a puddle behind me everywhere I went. It had been 38° in Perth the day before, and I had definitely not done my research or dressed for the occasion. Nevertheless, I had been sitting on a plane for the best part of the day, and needed to stretch my legs. It was 3pm by this time, so I had to pick somewhere reasonably close (to my Southbank accommodation), and where my unsuitable attire would not be a great hindrance. What better way to introduce myself to Victoria than by visiting the apparent counterpart to one of my favourite places in Perth – our Supreme Court Gardens.

    So off I headed, through an unfamiliar city, guided only by Google Maps on my watch, through intermittent rain, fuelled entirely by the promise of beautiful scenery and a chance to relax.

    A miserable sight on a miserable day

    After discovering you can’t ride or leave e-scooters anywhere near the gardens (tip – don’t just hop on a scooter and hope for the best! Plan your stop ahead of time, especially in a place you’re unfamiliar with) I was finally in. Luckily for me, the rain had appeared to stop for the foreseeable future, allowing me some much needed time to relax and take in the scenery without worrying too much about the weather. This much needed respite could not have come at a better time.

    I appeared to have the gardens to myself, and boy did I need it

    It may be important to note here that I did not do any research about the gardens before my visit. I knew it was somewhere I wanted to visit, but other than that I was going in completely blind. Did I have any hopes? Did I have any expectations? I was hoping to see something I could not see at home, flora or fauna, and I was not disappointed.

    Plenty of birds we don’t have in W.A.

    After about 20 minutes of wandering I honestly didn’t know if I was going in circles or not. But I didn’t care, I was having a wonderful time just taking in the atmosphere and enjoying the opportunity to relax and escape the hustle and bustle of the city.

    Had I been here before? More importantly, did it matter?

    At some point during my walk, I had set myself a goal: to find a nook or cranny, off the beaten path, which I could temporarily claim as my own, and imagine I was the first human to ever set foot in that particular spot. Unfortunately, my efforts fell flat, due in part to a lack of time (the gates were closing soon, and I wasn’t about to risk climbing the fence in the rain with those huge spikes on top).

    This was alluring, but the plaque inside told me that I was not the first

    It was time for me to quickly find one more path to go down, then scramble out and find something for dinner. It didn’t take long for me to find somewhere that looked interesting, and I started feeling sentimental as not only would this be my last look at Melbourne’s Royal Botanic Gardens, but it also effectively marked the end of my first day ever in Victoria.

    I have a soft spot for bridges, and this one was calling my name

    Just like that, as quickly as I came in, it was time for me to leave. I was satisfied that I had seen most of what there was to see, but I thought I ought to check the map on my way out, to confirm this. Wait, what’s that? An observatory? Guilfoyle’s Volcano? You win this round, RBG. But I’ll be back…

    Goodbye, Royal Botanical Gardens of Victoria. I’ll be back soon, and next time I’ll make sure I don’t miss a thing

    September 15, 2023
  • Janefield Wetlands and Plenty Gorge Park

    Plenty Gorge Park is our favourite place to go for a walk. This time we started from Janefield Wetlands near Uni Hill.

    Black swan
    Boardwalk
    Dry creek
    Dry tree
    Kangaroos

    We returned on the trail next to the Plenty River. We walked 6.1 km for about 1.5 hours. Recording of our walk on Strava.

    September 8, 2023
  • Great Ocean Walk Day 6 – Devils Kitchen to the 12 Apostles

    First, I would like to acknowledge both the Eastern Maar peoples and the Wadawurrung peoples of the Kulin Nations as the traditional owners of the Great Otway National Park. I want to pay my respects to the past, present and any Indigenous people among us today. I also want to acknowledge that I have profited and benefited from stolen land and that Indigenous people were never ceded sovereignty. Finally, I would like to acknowledge the Wurundjeri peoples of, Naarm, where I sit and write this blog and would like to acknowledge the traditional owners of the many lands my readers come from.

    The final day of the 5-night hike through the Great Otway National Park. The Great Ocean Walk has been challenging, beautiful, relaxing and a home away from home during this last week. It was bittersweet knowing it was the last day of the trip, my mate and I had such an incredible time together but we were also keen for a shower, see our loved ones and to get a good night’s sleep in our respective beds. But lets not get ahead of ourselves we still have 16km to hike to get to the 12 Apostles. This 16km is definitely do able as a day walk but unfortunately there is no car access between Wreck Beach Carpark and Gellibrand River Carpark. Although the Old Coach Rd does get pretty close to the trail at times this might be something worth investigating. If you were to walk from Wreck Beach to the 12 Apostles it would be 18kms, this makes it a lengthy day walk but not impossible.

    Signage along the way of the Great Ocean Walk. The sign is wooden slats with white writing and arrows showing the milestones. There is a dirt trail in the background and ferns behind the sign.
    Signage along the way

    The first 7kms included gentle undulation and followed the coastal cliffs looking down over the ocean, we trekked in a north west direction. There is no beach access along this section but there are lookouts and boot cleaning stations to avoid the spread of cinnamon fungus. I have spoken previously about the cinnamon fungus but as a reminder it attacks and rots the root systems of plants which ruins the biodiversity of our native plants. Please wash your boots carefully at the stations. As the trail turns inland in a northerly direction the ground under foot changes to become much more sandy, due to Gellibrand River to the west. There are a few more people on the trail than the last few days because they are doing their daily walks along the Gellibrand River. We come across Princetown Camping Reserve along Old Coach Rd. Now we really feel like we are in a built up area.

    The mouth of the coastal Gellibrand River. The sky is hazy and cloudy. The coastal bush is green and lush, there is an escarpment in the back ground and you can also start to see the edge of princetown.
    Gellibrand River
    A picture of a boardwalk and a carpark with a sign for the next leg of the journey.
    Our morning tea spot and the next section of the trail at the signpost.

    We cross the bridge and decide to have morning tea on the boardwalk over the Gellibrand River. After morning tea we start to hike along the sand dune area. This part of the trail is more steep and includes steps etched into the sandy hills and the occasional boardwalk. By this point we are also on the edge of the Great Otway National Park and so we see more roads, cars and people. This is different compared to the last few days of the trek where there was minimal car access and the only people we bumped into were fellow hikers. It is a little bit of a shock to the system. Although the sandy vegetation and coastal views are beautiful and worth taking in during this section which lasts for 6km.

    A lookout with a plack for the Great Ocean Walk. Two women with their backs to the camera, carrying heavy packs stand in front of it. The background is of the 12 apostles and the ocean. The sky is blue with wispy clouds.
    Almost at the end of the Great Ocean Walk

    Highly recommend taking a photo at this iconic sign, it is a milestone on this 6 day trek. Once at Gibson Steps you can choose to go down to the beach to explore or continue on the trail and cross the Great Ocean Rd. Once you cross the road the trail becomes a two way track and is much busier with tourists and sightseers. We walked along here for 1km until we encountered the Visitor Centre where we turned south and walked to the 12 Apostles lookout. At the lookout there is a bunch of boardwalks to walk along although some of these were under construction when we were there. We said hello to the 12 Apostles and felt we had already said farewell to the trail before this busy section. It was a real jolt back into regular life.

    The 12 Apostles are in the background. In the foreground is a grassy cliff overlooking the beach and ocean. There is a large cliff following alongside the beach on the right side of the picture. The sky is blue with a few wispy clouds.
    The 12 Apostles.

    We walked back to the visitor centre and went straight to the bathrooms. It felt good to have running water on our faces and we cleaned up a little before walking into the shop to grab a hot pie for lunch. From here we hitch hiked back to the car that we left in Apollo Bay. If you don’t want to risk it with hitch hiking there are plenty of shuttle companies that look after this area along the way, just make sure you book with them in advance. There is also a public bus system but unfortunately it only arrives and departs at really inconvenient times. On our journey back to Melbourne we did stop in Apollo Bay for a pub meal and a swim at the beach, highly recommend this final stop before getting swept back into regular life again.

    Trail NameGreat Ocean Walk – Devils Kitchen to the 12 Apostles
    Distance16km
    Estimated Time5hrs
    Grade3
    TypeOne Way – East to West
    ParkGreat Otway National Park
    AccessHike-in only (2WD access from the 12 Apostles)
    Trail NameGreat Ocean Walk – Blanket Bay Campground to Cape Otway Lightstation Carpark
    Distance11km
    Estimated Time3.5hrs
    Grade2-3
    TypeOne Way – East to West
    ParkGreat Otway National Park
    Access2WD
    Source
    September 1, 2023
  • Great Ocean Walk Day 5 – Ryans Den to Devils Kitchen

    First, I would like to acknowledge both the Eastern Maar peoples and the Wadawurrung peoples of the Kulin Nations as the traditional owners of the Great Otway National Park. I want to pay my respects to the past, present and any Indigenous people among us today. I also want to acknowledge that I have profited and benefited from stolen land and that Indigenous people were never ceded sovereignty. Finally, I would like to acknowledge the Wurundjeri peoples of, Naarm, where I sit and write this blog and would like to acknowledge the traditional owners of the many lands my readers come from.

    We woke up very sore yet extremely proud of ourselves for digging deep the day before and smashing out a 28km hike. We chose to have a slower morning and enjoyed yoga and breakfast at the lookout before the days hike of 13kms. Ryan’s Den was by far our favorite spot of the GOW so far and we didn’t want to leave. The hike from Ryan’s Den to Devils Kitchen was mostly inland until we got to Wreck Beach where you could choose to trek along the beach and then back inland and around to devils kitchen or stay on the more direct inland route. If you were to do this trek as a day walk you could start from the car access at Ryans Den Track 1km before Ryans Den Hike-In Campground. Then hike until the Gable Car Park (10km) or the Wreck Beach Car Park (11km) which means you don’t quite make it to Devils Kitchen Hike-In Campground unless you hike all the way there and back, adding 5km to the 11km hike.

    A massive flat rock on the top of a cliff, looking down a the rugged coast line. In the background the ocean and a blue sky, including the hilly coastline covered in coastal brush.
    The coastal views along the Great Ocean Walk

    The first 4.8km of the inland trail was directly above the ocean on the steep cliffline. After this the trail turned abruptly north and we were technically outside of the Great Otway National Park here we trekked along an access road for 600m before reentering the National Park and travelling west. We were inundated by flys for this short 600m, due to it being so close to farmland and the farm animals there, we were overjoyed to make our way back inside the national park. A lot of this section of the Great Ocean Walk trail is on platforms and involves many boot cleaners. It seemed to be newly constructed and I imagine this is due to the Cinnamon Fungus prevention.

    Imagine of the back of a woman walking on a dirt trial surrounded by ferns, tea trees and various australian flora.
    Exploring Devils Kitchen

    The rest of the walk included a few man made catching features such as the car parks and boot cleaning stations. This helped us with our motivation loss due to the fatigue that a multi-day trip involves by day 5. Each time we passed a ‘checkpoint’ we knew we were that much closer. We chose to walk down the wooden planks to Wreck Beach for morning tea. We left our packs in the bushes at the top of the ‘stairs’ and enjoyed the lighter feeling for the beach scramble. If you do choose to walk along this beach continue to be aware of the tide times due to no inland track exits past this point. I have heard there is some interesting history of the shipwrecks along this beach and various anchors to find. I am sure it is definitely worth a visit. Then we passed the Wreck Beach Carpark and knew we only had 2.6km left until Devil’s Kitchen Hike-In Campground.

    The many stairs down to Wreck Beach.

    Arrival at Devils Kitchen was well deserved, we chose a nice large flat campsite to setup and explored the area. This campsite had the best loo with a view by far out of the entire GOW. We also found a lovely lookout perfect for watching the sunset. We refilled our water bladders and setup monopoly deal inside the group shelter here. After dinner we watched the sunset before crawling into our tents hoping for a long sleep before the final trek out in the morning.

    Two red tents set up on a sandy campsite. Tea trees surrounding the setup with the sunlight filtering through their branches.
    Devils Kitchen Campsite Setup
    An image of the window out of a drop toilet looking at the spectacular vegetation and ocean.
    The loo with a view, by far the best drop toilet on the GOW
    Two women embracing for a photo in front of the ocean sunset.
    Our final sunset on the multi day trek
    Trail NameGreat Ocean Walk – Ryans Den to Devils Kitchen Hike-In Campground
    Distance13km
    Estimated Time5hrs
    Grade4
    TypeOne Way – East to West
    ParkGreat Otway National Park
    AccessHike-in only (2WD access from ??)
    Trail NameGreat Ocean Walk – Blanket Bay Campground to Cape Otway Lightstation Carpark
    Distance11km
    Estimated Time3.5hrs
    Grade2-3
    TypeOne Way – East to West
    ParkGreat Otway National Park
    Access2WD
    Trail NameGreat Ocean Walk – Shelly Beach Picnic Area to Blanket Bay Campground
    Distance15.2km
    Estimated Time5hrs
    Grade2
    TypeOne Way – East to West
    ParkGreat Otway National Park
    Access2WD
    Source
    August 25, 2023
  • Great Ocean Walk Day 4 – Aire River to Ryans Den

    First, I would like to acknowledge both the Eastern Maar peoples and the Wadawurrung peoples of the Kulin Nations as the traditional owners of the Great Otway National Park. I want to pay my respects to the past, present and any Indigenous people among us today. I also want to acknowledge that I have profited and benefited from stolen land and that Indigenous people were never ceded sovereignty. Finally, I would like to acknowledge the Wurundjeri peoples of, Naarm, where I sit and write this blog and would like to acknowledge the traditional owners of the many lands my readers come from.

    When I look back on this multi-day trek I remember day 4 as the highlight of the trip. We knew it would be a challenge. We had built up our expectations and motivation over the last 3 days. Day 4 was a 28km hike with the most elevation gain and loss of the entire Great Ocean Walk, this should not be undertaken unless your an experienced hiker. To mitigate arriving too late to Ryan’s Den we had a ‘trail breaky’ which meant we picked a certain amount of kilometres to walk before we found a nice spot to eat breakfast on the trail. We found this motivated us to complete more distance first thing in the morning. Highly recommend this technique if you have a long day planned.

    Coast Line with native shrubs in the foreground, cliffs on the left and the rough ocean on the right. Its extremely overcast but the sun is trying to poke through in the centre of the sky.
    Views along the trail.

    Our breakfast spot was 2.8km along the trail at the Sentinel Rock Lookout, the trail handrails Aire River in a westerly direction and is undulating. After breakfast the trail turned northwesterly. The terrain was the same for the next kilometre but is now beside the cliffs and beach. The trail followed a steady decline towards the beach with an elevation loss of 50m within 400metres. Next we arrived at Castle Cove Lookout, which is definitely worth having a break at. Castle Cove is very popular because it is one of the only spots along this section of the Great Ocean Walk that you can get access directly from the Great Ocean Road, there is room for about 4 cars to pull up on the side of the road to check it out.

    A sandy trail with a woman hiking with a red pack on. The sky is full of clouds you can barely see any blue sky.

    We continued hiking along the coastline for a kilometre before the trail began to head north and inland. There are many boot cleaning stations here please make sure to do a thorough job to avoid the spread of cinnamon fungus. Cinnamon fungus attacks and rots the root systems of plants which ruins the biodiversity of our native plants. This section of the trail is also hilly until we made our way to Johanna Beach. Here there is a long sandy beach stretch of 2kms which includes a river crossing, there is no alternative route so make sure to check the tide times.

    A small seal relaxing on the sandy beach. There are waves in the back ground and an overcast grey sky.
    A seal we found on Johanna Beach
    A woman has a blue backpack on, is facing the camera and pulling on a rope to help her walk up a rock exit from the sandy beach.
    The exit off Johanna Beach
    A view from a lookout of Johanna Beach, the waves are rolling in and the sky is very overcast and grey.
    Johanna Beach after walking across the sand

    We felt exhilarated knowing we had made it to the end of Johanna Beach yet we were extremely aware the hardest part of the walk was still ahead of us. If you were doing this as a day walk Johanna Beach would be a great spot to stop and get picked up since there is car access here. Aire River to Johanna Beach is 12km. We continued on the trail and walked past the Johanna Beach Hike-In Campground which is a further 2km inland. This was a special point of the trip for me because this is where my best mate and I turned back, 6 years ago, and hitch hiked out to a hostel due to injury and unpreparedness. I was young and ambitious, I am proud that we had completed it up till this point back then . Especially considering I had never done a multiday trip before. On this trip, I had zero qualms about completing this 6 day trek.

    A woman standing proudly beside a chain fence on a cliff edge facing the camera. Behind the cliff is a beach and rolling hills. The ocean has waves and the sky is so grey you can't differentiate the clouds.
    The view from Johanna Beach Hike-In Campground

    From the campsite we continued on for another 1km on Old Coach Rd and decided to have our lunch before we tackled the inland elevation towards Melanesia Beach. After lunch we came across the largest snake I have ever seen, and I have been on a lot of trails in the past. Please take care in this section especially because there is so much long grass and not much shade from trees since it is farmland. This was one of the most challenging sections for the day 8kms of dirt roads which includes the elevation gain of 300m and then the loss of 300m also. Allow a lot of time, water and food for this section. We did this at the hottest part of the day because it was unavoidable due to the distance we had to complete to arrive at our campsite. I would recommend this section to be done during the cooler part of the morning due to the limited coverage of trees. Also be aware that there is a lot of fast driving cars through these back roads before arriving at Melanesia Beach.

    Picnic on a grassy hill.
    Picnic lunch on a grassy hill along the Old Coach Rd
    Beach with a river through the middle, blue skies with zero clouds.
    Melanesia River at Melanesia Beach
    Weird rock formations on a sandy cliff face. Looks like man made rock climbing holds but it is natural.
    Interesting rock formations on a sandy cliff at Melanesia Beach

    We were super excited to arrive at this beach because we found shade under the cliff and were able to eat our afternoon snack. We had almost 5km still to hike before we were at camp so we did not go for a swim but continued the final part. It was so beautiful leaving the farmland behind and entering back into the Great Otway National Park. Our bodies were fatiguing after having already hiked 23km so the undulating hills and the various stair cases felt never ending. We relied on each other for motivation and the arrival to camp was an emotional one. This was our challenge day and we were over the moon to have accomplished it together.

    Two red tents on a sandy campsite surrounded by coastal shrubs and tea trees.
    Campsite at Ryan’s Den

    Ryans Den was by far my favorite campsite out of all the ones we stayed at. After setting up camp we carried our dinner supplies up to the top of the lookout and enjoy a spectacular sunset. The next morning we had a slow morning involving a sunrise yoga and breakfast session at the lookout. If you planned to do this second half of the walk as a day trip there is car access 1km before Ryans Den Hike-In Campground at the Ryans Den Track. I have never driven on this road so please check the conditions before relying on this one. Due to the majority of the trail being through farmland I probably would not recommend this as a day trip. As an alternative, if you could park your car on Ryans Den Track, then explore by hiking to the campsite (2km return) and then hiking down to Melanesia Beach (7km return) this might be a more enjoyable day trip.

    A grassy cleared hill with a stunning view of the ocean sky and sun starting to set over escarpments.
    The lookout at Ryan’s Den
    An orange sunset right before the final light with a stunning view of the ocean sky and sun starting to set over escarpments. In the foreground the silhouette of foliage.
    The spectacular sunset during dinner
    Trail NameGreat Ocean Walk – Aire River to Ryans Den Hike-In Campground
    Distance28km
    Estimated Time10hrs
    Grade4
    TypeOne Way – East to West
    ParkGreat Otway National Park
    AccessHike-in only (2WD access from Johanna Beach)
    Trail NameGreat Ocean Walk – Blanket Bay Campground to Cape Otway Lightstation Carpark
    Distance11km
    Estimated Time3.5hrs
    Grade2-3
    TypeOne Way – East to West
    ParkGreat Otway National Park
    Access2WD
    Trail NameGreat Ocean Walk – Shelly Beach Picnic Area to Blanket Bay Campground
    Distance15.2km
    Estimated Time5hrs
    Grade2
    TypeOne Way – East to West
    ParkGreat Otway National Park
    Access2WD
    Source
    August 18, 2023
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